Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Crete — 17, Heraklion

Having finally found a parking spot for the car, we started trudging up through the recently rebuilt St. George's Gate. While walking, we heard intense music — a pretty weird thing in the middle of a deserted tunnel with a staircase, which is exactly what St. George's Gate is.


Wherever there are Rambo's copyrights, those are his photos. The rest are mine or from Flickr.

Two women walk on a sidewalk along the high stone wall of a fortress. In the background, a road with cars, ancient city fortifications, and green trees are visible. Way out there in the distance, where you can see the steps, is supposedly St. George's Gate. Or maybe I'm lying

Upon reaching the end, we discovered it was Native Americans messing around. (Well, or pseudo-Native Americans). I've seen these same wandering Indians many times before — in Riga, Palanga, and somewhere else. And now they've turned up in Crete. As it turned out, from a deserted parking lot near a steep slope, we had come up straight into the old town of Heraklion, located relatively close to the sea.

A man in red shorts and a white tank top walks across a sunlit square past a pole with notices. In the background under trees, a group of people has gathered, among them a person in a Native American headdress; musical instruments are visible nearby. Indians packing up their drums. Dancing and singing in such heat (+32-34) is a questionable pleasure

Here Tanya found a fountain in the guidebook, and we immersed ourselves in a search once again. I suspect that all the fountains on the island were built by the Turks, but what do we care. Here I demonstrated a topographical intellect quite uncharacteristic of me, and practically led us right to the fountain, but just to be safe, I asked some women chatting at an intersection and showed them the picture from the guidebook. One of the Cretan women waved her hand — and indeed, the fountain was right there, twenty meters away, at the end of the street, and we would have even seen it if the street hadn't been arc-shaped like a piece of the Hadron Collider.

The historical stone Morosini fountain with lion figures and bas-reliefs is located in the center of a bustling city square. Around it are numerous street cafes with brightly colored umbrellas, under which people are relaxing on a sunny day.Morosini

Imagine our disappointment when we reached the spot. No, the fountain itself was fine, unlike the one in Chania, but it was turned off! Even though the Turks were totalitarian bastards, under them the fountain would definitely have been running, unlike under the relaxed Cretans. By the way, the fountain is called "Morosini," and it was built (surprise!) by the Venetians after all, in honor of the ruler at the time, in 1628. Built not just for the sake of it, but as the crown of an aqueduct bringing water from Mount Juktas, 15 km from the city. Rumor has it that Zeus rests inside the mountain, despite being immortal. Well, believers are no strangers to doublethink. 

IMG_3120 An art exhibition in St. Mark's church. Or maybe I'm lying, and it's a different church

Near the fountain there is also St. Mark's church, which just happened to be hosting an art exhibition, we took a quick look. Tanya isn't a big fan of museums, so we went through them in abridged mode. Ten times abridged. Also near the fountain there's some Venetian structure with a tricky name, but since it looks like a regular old piece of crap with arches, I didn't even remember its name.

A two-story historical Venetian loggia building made of light stone with an open arched gallery on the first floor and semicircular windows on the second. People are strolling along the pedestrian street in front of the building's facade on a sunny day.The piece of crap with arches. Rambo

People walk along an asphalt road leading to a massive ancient stone fortress under a clear blue sky. On the right is a high stone wall, and on the left the sea is visible.On the approaches to Koules

Then we slowly crawled toward the waterfront, where a view of yet another ancient fortification suddenly opened up to us. As we had already figured out, all the peoples who inhabited the island in different times were no fools when it came to warfare, so they built fortresses to their hearts' content.

A dimly lit ancient dungeon with stone walls, arched vaults, and an uneven tiled floor. In the depths, several passageways with clay vessels are visible, and on the right is a wooden display case or counter. Casemates

A large ancient clay amphora of reddish-brown color stands on a metal stand in a dimly lit stone room with a dark arched opening in the background on the left. A bottle

This specific one was built by the restless Venetians and is called Koules. (Koules?). When the Ottoman Turks captured the city, they locked up all sorts of revolutionaries in there, added a minaret and a second floor. The Masonic Byzantine ephorate already known to us, though this time the 13th one, repaired and polished up the fortress in our days in order to conduct their secret rituals there, I mean, exhibitions and conferences. True, it's not very clear where they do it — down in the basement the casemates are something else, dark and gloomy, the only thing missing is mold. I didn't see anything on the second floor; apparently, they don't let tourists into the holy of holies.

 

IMG_0368A cannon and asymmetrical balls for shooting

An old, heavily rusted ship's anchor leaning against an ancient stone wall in a dimly lit room with a stone floor.A little anchor

A stone fortress with a paved courtyard and a round tower. In the background, a busy port with a large ferry, port cranes, and the city on the horizon can be seen. On the roof

A long concrete breakwater with a road goes far into the sea, forming a quiet bay with turquoise water where a group of people is swimming. In the foreground, a rocky shore with large gray boulders is visible under a clear sky. Kiddos taking a dip

In real life it looks even more fantastic. A hundred meters from a bustling city with tourists and transport — a psychedelic breakwater going out into the sea and amazingly colored water on both sides. I was so jealous of those kiddos.  By the way, they got there on bikes.

A view from a stone fortress wall of a long breakwater going out into the turquoise sea under a clear blue sky. On the left rises part of a massive stone tower, people are visible on the wall, and in the distance is a red ship. Panorama, authored by Tanya (aka Sergey)

 

 

 

 

A stone medieval fortress on the seashore surrounded by moored boats and yachts, past which a person sails in a small motorboat. Koules from the waterfront

A coastal view with a rocky shore and surf in the foreground, city buildings along the sea and distant mountains on the horizon under a clear sky.I'd say Rambo's photo turned out well

IMG_3108Koules up close

A powerful wave crashes against the stone blocks of the breakwater, throwing up a fountain of white spray, against the backdrop of an azure sea and blurry mountains under a gray sky.The eternal beating of waves against rocks will subside only with the onset of global warming, when  they start beating against the walls of houses

A view of a sea harbor with numerous parked boats and motorboats, in the background of which city buildings and ancient stone arches are located. View of the waterfront

A bustling port city with numerous yachts and boats at the pier. In the center of the frame is an ancient vaulted stone structure with arches, surrounded by modern multi-story buildings and palm trees against a clear sky.The tallest buildings seen on Crete. The tunnel supposedly used to house merchant rows

A light stone church building with a dome and a cross, decorated with openwork windows, towers over a spacious square. Palm trees grow in front of it, several passersby and a parked motorcycle are visible. An Orthodox church with palm trees looks funny

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_3132 This horse has a suspiciously large number of legs. Maybe because it has three heads?

IMG_3135Straight out of some adventure game. By the way, my first and most favorite one is Lost Eden. I learned English from it

I don't know what's in the picture above — that's Rambo wandering into a museum. Considering that there's a crazy number of pictures in this post, I consider myself exempt from meeting the character count quota. We weren't in Heraklion for long after Koules; by popular demand of the working masses, we got in the car and rolled off to the sea. Strangely enough, the sea was only found near the Oceanarium, but more on that in the next parts. Stay tuned.